Monday, December 7, 2015

May Nothing But Happiness Come Through Your Door OR: The Missed Drum Stick, The Story Of Time, And The Nature Of An Abstract Experience




Mogwai were playing a few feet away. It’s sort of a bit like the first few seconds of an earthquake, when you realize you’re actually feeling the thing instead of sleeping through it. The excitement precedes the possibility of destruction. Or waking up while it’s still dark outside, getting ready on Fast Forward, and then leaving the city for a short vacation. Something like the warm, disarming smile of a complete stranger that makes you feel almost exposed. Or when, say you live in Bombay and take a flight to Delhi in December or January. You step out of the aircraft into an unfamiliar cold, one that the body takes a while to absorb into its million pores. In that brief limbo period, the icy waves on your face are liberating. Watching the band live in Delhi last week, I remember how I kept checking my watch every couple of songs, the reasons for which seem no clearer now than at the time. The larger meaninglessness of such instances only enhances their pure immediacy.

See, I rarely wear a watch. I used to own a nice watch three years ago. Then, one of the loops into which the strap settles fell off. Instead of going to a shop five minutes from my house to get it fixed, I abandoned the idea of wearing one altogether. Until recently. A supplementary/backup internet connection was purchased at home, along with which we received a low-quality free watch. It has little threads hanging loose — its innards have become its outards, you could say (don’t go) — but it does a respectable job of telling me the time. Plus, I’m trying to recalibrate my system so that I don’t aimlessly whip out my cell phone to check the time/ponder over some abstract notion of staring into a digital screen every few minutes. So I wear that watch off and on, whenever I can remember to. Like I did during Mogwai’s set a week ago, and kept checking religiously.

Did I want the set to end? No, but in a way I think I did. I was one of the few people in the area up front not begging for an encore. It was also the exact opposite, of course. I kept looking at the time because the more you do that, the more time seems to slow down (as any obsessive person will testify). Or maybe it was something else entirely. I remember years ago, during a spell of reading about sleep patterns and all related material (what?), I read about this trick to help you accomplish the elusive act of lucid dreaming. You stare at numbers on a watch when you’re awake, and will them to change, to the point where it becomes habitual — like biting your cuticles. You concentrate really hard on changing the four into a two or a ‘K’, even though it never does. Then, during a dream, when you automatically will your watch numbers to change, and they do, you become aware that it’s a dream, and you can subsequently control what’s happening. So maybe it had something to do with the loss of control, but that’s something I ceded quite willingly, so maybe not.

Then ‘I’m Jim Morrison, I’m Dead’ began to play. In my hazy, barely-conscious state, I first thought they’d kicked into ‘Auto Rock’ — I’ve only heard these two songs some tens of thousands of times regularly over the past 12 years or so, so that’s an understandable mistake I should think. It’s when the set truly ‘hit’ — the loss of control became a comfortable state of existence. It’s hard to know for sure if I shed a stray tear or two because a lot of the actions at the time were involuntary.

Like the guy standing next to me, leaning on the railing and literally not moving the entire time. He presumably hadn’t bathed, shaved, or cut his hair in years, so not moving seems the next logical step in the progression — plus why would he? He had the best seat (standing place) in the house. Or the one on my right, who decided to sing along to the instrumental music of Mogwai. I wondered briefly if it was a misguided attempt to impress his ladyfriend (who chose the more conventional method of tapping her foot and bopping her head to the music) but I think he was just an idiot. I blocked him out instantly, and he faded in and out of the screen of my consciousness after. During ‘Hunted by a Freak’, where Barry Burns does sing — heavily processed and indecipherable as the vocals may be — my Not Friend to the right, let’s call him John Mayor, decided to not only sing along but also harmonize to the vocal melody of the song, making up his own lyrics (obviously). It was impressive — I have also never wanted to punch someone quite as badly. But in a matter of seconds, I had blocked him out again. It was OK — I wasn’t actually angry.    

Then I zoned out again. Then in briefly to look at the watch. Then out. I was standing right in front, so it was very loud, and when the introductory guitar riff to ‘Rano Pano’ began, the whole area started to rumble and shake. (How those guys aren’t deaf yet I’ll never know; maybe that’s why John Cummings left the band.) It was frightening. The whole thing — just the one massive guitar part before the other stuff joins in — seemed to have a space-time fluidity, lasting anywhere between three seconds to eternity. Hard to say what time it was.

When you hear a song that really moves you, a profound sense of loss sets in even before the song is over. You start missing the song before it’s finished. That existential sadness had settled in me by the time the very first song of the set was not even half done. The fear of the set finishing was present almost before it even really began. (I should add here a brief moment of self-reflection — since this is MY blog — on the day of the gig, there was something personal that I had to deal with. So maybe the set might have been less meaningful without that, or more fun, or neither — hard to talk in absolutes here.)  

The last song, the really long last song, was, I think, ‘Mogwai Fear Satan’. The moment I’d been dreading for the past 80 minutes was pretty much here. But not quite. In a way, I also wanted the set to end, so that I could fully process it. There’s sadness at the end of a song, but there’s also the space to breathe, reflect, and find meaning. As the circular waves of the song started to dissipate, though, I figured I was wrong. I didn’t want the set to end. It did — it seemed appropriate, and one that didn’t demand calls for another song, so I refrained.

The drummer came forward and tossed one of his drum sticks in my general direction. I instinctively jumped to try and catch it. But it sailed past my outstretched arms to a few rows behind me, giving a tangible shape to my disappointment that it was over. I like the idea of souvenir-collection, but I’m not really committed enough to follow through on it. So I don’t know what I would have done with that drum stick even if I’d managed to catch it. It doesn’t make sense to make sense of an experience that may or may not have been life-changing.

Monday, September 28, 2015

Portishead, Zero 7, and Massive Attack are actually literally the same band




Years of experience have led me to the conclusion that a YouTube spree is the best way to avoid being constructive. On one of those (twice-weekly) benders last night, I found myself watching a video of Thom Yorke and Jonny Greenwood playing a Portishead song called The Rip. For some reason, it induced instant déjà vu; something about the song makes it seem so familiar in an otherworldly way (not a generic one). Or maybe I’d just heard it before — can’t really be sure. (Also, it seems I’ve abused the Radiohead family tree on YouTube so much that the only new joy to be derived comes from covers.)

But that’s not the point of the revival of this fantastic (if slightly pitiful) blog. As I moved on to the original Portishead version of the song (that’s how YouTube trails generally work), a mini-epiphany dawned on me: Portishead, Massive Attack and Zero 7 are literally the same band. I’m sure enough people have thought it from time to time — I have too, in the past — but this particular time came with a shuddering sense of finality and clarity.

They all belong to the same-ish movement of cool, underground trip-hop from Britain that made it big on a mainstream level. Collectively, or if counted as one, they have to be the most covered band in the world (after Daft Punk’s Lucky). (if I hear one more cover of Teardrop, I swear to god…)

Anyway, there are the musical similarities, the vocal delivery, the absence of any happy, major notes whatsoever (Massive Attack do sneak in a couple out of every ten thousand lonely, minor notes though), the restrained, gun-to-their-heads performance style (again, MA have more whimsy and energy, but that just fuels the idea that they’re basically Portishead/Zero 7 after a couple of beers), the tempo and the experimentation with sound.

And then there are the faces. I’m no racist, but it’s common fact that all British people look alike. In this case, the resemblances are uncanny.

It’s just some massive elaborate performance piece.

Monday, January 19, 2015

The Art of Flying Kites and Killing Birds in a World of Men and the Problematic Space Constraints of Newspapers Sidestepped by the Internet


Outside the Diwan ji haveli we were at, just a few metres away, I met a good-hearted chap named Soni, somewhere in his late thirties, who had his own silver business nearby. We were in Manek Chowk in the old city of Ahmedabad, which served as the destination for the final day of the three-day Red Bull Kite Fight competition (you fly a kite and eliminate others by cutting their attached string with your own aircraft, with the last man standing the winner). In between some slightly questionable right-wing views being professed, I asked Soni about the area we were in. Smiling, he pointed to his chest. “This is the heart of Ahmedabad.” Really, the old city has an inimitable charm; hundreds of shops — wedding bands, vegetable shops, silver and gold stores, groceries, street food — are all huddled close to each other, with residential spaces integrated within the same space. (It is apparently one of the largest jewellery markets in the country, a fact revealed by Soni and corroborated by the internet.) Narrow bylanes intersect each other periodically to fashion a mazy map to the area, frequented by pedestrians, cows, scooters with middle-aged ladies riding their husbands around, cows, dogs, bulls, the odd out of place car, and bikes with this thin metal wire thing attached to the handlebars, framing the front of the bike. This, I learnt, is because Makar Sankranti and Uttarayan were just around the corner, festivals which traditionally serve as the kite-flying season in Gujarat. You have the regular cotton string that’s used for flying kites, and the manja, the abrasive string that’s coated with powdered glass for battling other kites. And then, you have the Chinese manja which, according to locals, can slit your throat if you’re riding around on your bike in the city. The metal frame was protection.

Chinese manja was banned at the competition, because the tensile strength of the string used, apparently nylon, provides an unfair advantage. More importantly, this Chinese manja has also been responsible for killing hundreds of birds since its introduction onto the scene, and petitions are on to ban the stuff. Even the regular glass-coated manja has killed many a bird in its heyday, but the Chinese stuff is far more effective. Kite flying is about flying only for the rank amateurs to the sport (such as this writer); the real thrill is to cut another kite. It’s a victorious feeling, accentuated by an emphatic utterance of “Kai po che! (translated to “I have cut the kite!”), preceded by the war cry “Lapet”, (roll it in) when one smells enemy blood. So should a kite-flying enthusiast stick to the safe cotton-string manja, which is wildlife-friendly, and have a good time maneuvering the kite only to be rudely cut down by A. N. Other still using the glass-coated stuff? Or should he say fuck the birds, let me fly?    

And I say “he” deliberately because, make no mistake, kite flying is a man’s sport, it seems. At the grand, multi-storey haveli which served as the hub of the competition on the final day, there were all kinds of people registering: The bright-eyed young kids with their dads in tow, the dudes with earrings and stylish clothes scoping the scene, the kite-auteurs wearing gym gloves to protect their fingers from the cuts the strings might cause (but fuck the birds, right?), guys with protective doctor tape around their flying thumb and fingers, the nerds with their comfortable clothes and multiple spools. There was even Kaka (a term of endearment for an older person), a man on the wrong side of 60 (or less maybe), on whom male pattern baldness had had its way, leaving behind a trail of shimmering grey hairs, and he wasn’t even the oldest contestant there.

Kaka managed to make the day three finals, and he had an imperial air about him with the kite string slipping gently through his fingers, but he was eliminated before he could make the cut. Each day had a prelim session, where hundreds of kiters were allocated a total of five kites to manage — “Those who come last. Come first.” [sic] was the slogan for the event. The prelims lasted for close to four hours with a lunch break thrown in between. The winners from the prelims would engage in a heated duel to compete in the finals. The first day was held at Manek Chowk — across multiple terraces, 11 in total, in the neighbourhood serving as locations for contestants to park themselves and compete — day two at the open grounds at the H.L. College of Commerce, with the final day again placing the haveli as the axis. So there were all these people registering, spread across a wide demographic. And yet, where were the women? There was one lady who registered along with her two daughters, but turns out they were mostly taking photographs, not competing. There was the very young girl — around five — who was adding to the cuteness quotient. And the lady who was holding the spool while her male companion did the actual flying, and another who was providing moral support. Is that because of the brutal masculinity of the sport itself? Unlikely.

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Kite flying is inherently graceful and complex. Each of the terraces had a couple of big speakers on them, while the haveli terrace had a DJ playing contemporary dance music throughout, music which blared on each of the speakers at the other locations. It’s only then that I noticed the rhythmic elegance of kite flying, as contestants swayed to the music while staring deep into the screaming January sun, peering in to locate their kite, their string. The gentle maneuvering tugs — to ensure smooth flight and remain in attacking positions — started inadvertently getting coordinated with the music playing. The floating visuals of the kites themselves — hundreds of them in the sky — were seemingly scored by the music by the DJ.

Flying a kite is no child’s play. There may be manuals available, but there’s no set method or technique to the craft, largely because it’s a skill that’s acquired on a very local level, each benevolent teacher with his own myths and tricks. Because of the apocryphal nature of the teaching of kite flying, it’s geared towards right-handed people, although a certain ambidextrous ability does seem necessary, although all that went out the window when I saw a guy with one hand — either due to injury or a condition (it’s not a question you ask someone for quotes) — taking part too.

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You have to bend the kite by placing it on your head and then pulling it down toward your ears. The string needs to be tied to the kite a certain way (one of the day three finalists, this young kid, kept intentionally “missing” the knot while the others happily carried on, to waste time; this thing was against the rules and worthy of disqualification and no one seemed to notice but he did get knocked out soon after so justice was eventually served). Getting it in the air and floating requires patience and an understanding of wind and speed. The length of string extended is critical. You can’t just throw a kite down from a terrace and then tug at the string and expect miracles; a lot of precision goes into the process. And then, what do you do with the spool? Some guys kept it behind them, picking it up as required whenever they needed to extend or retract the manja; a bunch of them tucked the thing between the legs which was most ungainly. It has to be close enough for you to use it in a kiting emergency, but not so close that you trip over it. Once the kite is in full flight, a certain understanding of aerodynamics — the wind velocity, the lift- and drag coefficient, the centre of pressure, the angle formed, even if not articulated as such — seems essential to gauge distance between rival kites and the trajectory of your own. A strong spatial awareness is necessary too: you’re focusing your vision on your kite single-mindedly, but swift movement within the cluttered space is essential to maintaining smooth flight, so one needs to trudge backwards or sideways fairly often without running into furniture or another human. Plus, you’re staring straight at the sun, since kiting is definitely a day sport, so your eyes (and sweat pores) naturally take a healthy beating.

One of the terraces was accessible only through an old-fashioned hole in the ceiling floor beneath, sort of like how you enter an attic. This increased the challenges facing the kiters, who now had to also account for that little hole in the floor that they could fall into. It was covered with a metal sheet, but people still kept bumping into it. The terraces which served as locations for contestants actually belonged to residents there. The haveli itself had some four flights of narrow, tiny, unlit, rickety stairs, one of which without the luxury of even a quivering banister. The trick was to walk sideways, hold on to something, and hope. The other terraces had much the same provisions — one particularly challenging railing-less staircase had a little rope running along its axis, which you could grip on to for support or in case of a tumbling emergency. Without making it exotic or patronising, this was the life of the locals there. I passed through several floors of strangers’ houses — greeting them with embarrassment while they were in their regular, easy-going Sunday clothes watching whatever was on on their (non-flatscreen) televisions — but each family, each household was beyond polite. They would guide all the contestants, the media people, the organisers, to the way to the terrace. All the announcements about the contest were made in Gujarati, and the number of locals engaged in the whole thing was fairly high.

In fact, while the competition began across the 11 terraces on the last day, very soon there were at least a dozen more terraces where the residents of the areas began their own kite flying escapades. Some of the residents got on their balconies and started jiving to the very loud music, while others (lots of girls among them) got on to their terraces with friends and families, whipping out their own kites and joining in in the kitefest happening above them. They weren’t eligible for the prize, but they were very much part of the festival, and contestants losing any of their allocated kites to the non-competing flyers was a very legitimate and frequent occurrence. Life went on as usual downstairs, five storeys below, but on the terraces it was a different world altogether. And even on the ground, there was a clear buzz that something was up, something to do with kites.

This was possibly the highlight of the entire initiative — Red Bull may be making waves, here or globally, with an aggressive marketing strategy. They own multiple football teams (Red Bull Salzburg, Red Bull New York, RB Leipzig), alienating fans in the process, a whole F1 racing team, a concert bus that tours India and appears at music festivals, and a very average tasting drink. But such endeavours — where a noncommercial sport/activity, and all the connotations of the local, cultural traditions of the place it brings alongside it — are preserved and encouraged, while also including the locals in the activities without the added gain of “eyeballs” — how many people from across the country would have travelled to Ahmedabad to witness the Kite Fight? A handful, probably. — provide a sense of valid groundwork. This was the first ever edition of the thing, even if I presume many such events do anyway happen locally in Ahmedabad, and as the competition establishes itself, I’m sure many more women would sign up too.  

A draft of this piece first appeared in The Sunday Guardian on January 18: http://www.sunday-guardian.com/artbeat/those-who-last-come-first-a-weekend-of-kite-fights-a-the-kai-po-che-war-cry